Choosing the best belay devices can be a daunting task when the shelves are stocked, and the options seem endless. Whether you are on the hunt for your first belay device or you are looking for something new, you’re sure to find a device you’ve never seen before.
Gone are the days where the only choice you had to make was between an ATC or a Petzl GriGri. It was auto-locking or not and that was it. The market is saturated with innovative belay devices to keep you and your partner safe from gym to crag.
So, What is a Belay Device?
Not sure what a belay device is? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. A belay device is a piece of safety equipment used to control a rope. It connects climber to belayer and acts as the main point of control in lowering, catching falls, and feeding/pulling slack when climbing.
Using one requires the use of a “brake hand” which is the hand a belayer uses to control the friction of the rope on the device. Some options have an assisted braking mechanism that reinforces the brake hand technique.
Types of Devices
There are many different types of belay devices however the main types are tubular, assisted braking, plate, or figure 8.
1. Tubular ATC Devices
A tubular device is commonly referred to as an ATC. The ATC style came after older plate devices and features tubed aluminum with rope slots and a cable to attach to a harness when not in use. Most brands manufacture some variant of a tube style device and often describe it as an ATC. The acronym ATC comes from Black Diamond’s Air Traffic Controller model that was shortened to ATC and became so popular that it stuck.
A tube style device can feature one or two tube slots for the rope, various spacing for different rope diameters, and even extensive features. Some will have textured aluminum in the edge that the rope creates friction with to aid the belayer. Choices like the Black Diamond ATC Guide will have loops to be able to safely belay from above on multi-pitch routes.
2. Assisted Braking Devices
Assisted braking devices have a mechanism built into them that under certain pressure will prevent the rope from feeding and essentially lock the device off. Active assisted braking devices will have a mechanism that creates a camming action to stop the rope from moving like the Petzl GriGri where a passive assisted braking device like the Mammut Smart Alpine relies specifically on the shape of the device to prevent the rope from feeding.
Every assisted braking model reacts under pressure differently, but all of them provide an added layer of protection and relief to the belayer. They may be a bit heavier and bulkier than ATC counterparts, but they can prevent mishaps. These are a great choice for those lead belaying at busy crags and top rope climbing at gyms who are easily fatigued when feeding rope and catching falls. Keep in mind that these devices can only accommodate single ropes and have diameter restrictions.
3. Plates and Figure Eights
Plate devices are more a thing of the past. You likely won’t see these in heavy rotation at the crag. They are aluminum devices that have slots cut out for the ropes. They act like an ATC when in use but require a bit of extra finesse.
Figure 8 devices are more commonly used to rappel off of but can be easily used to belay with. It is host to two different sized circles that are attached at the centre. They make for smooth, controlled rappel devices, but can be a bit cumbersome when used to belay. They operate like a plate by using the smaller circle to control the rope with. We wouldn’t recommend this unless you have it on your rack already and use it for a backup.
What To Consider
When choosing belay devices, you’ll need to consider where and what you will be climbing along with your personal belay preferences. This goes for climber and belayer. There are climbers out there that will only allow their belayers to use an assisted braking unit like a GriGri to ensure their personal safety. Others may have a preference to belay with tube style devices to ensure proper technique. It all comes down to preference and personal needs and we will lead you through what you’ll need to consider.
1. Type of Climbing
The type of rock climbing you will be using your belay device for can play a huge role in choosing the best belay device for you. Any device will work in a gym or at a crag in nice weather, but when you are working with double ropes in the alpine, ice climbing or mountaineering in harsh conditions, or climbing a long multi-pitch, you are going to want to consider certain safety features over others.
Sport Climbing
Just about anything will work with this type of climb, but for those who are pushing their grade and climbing hard, an assisted braking device is ideal. Being able to catch a fall with an assisted braking device can save lives and prevent major injury. Having an option that will pinch the rope when a climber falls acts as major insurance on everyone’s safety. The assisted device is a great piece of climbing gear for those who mostly climb on top rope. For beginner climbers on top rope, having a device that can easily lock off without putting the hand on the brake under too much pressure is very helpful.
Some climbers say that the assisted braking devices make for a less dynamic catch because an ATC style allows the rope to run through slightly. Your belay technique is the most important component in catching a fall and being able to catch dynamically will have more of an effect than the type of device you use.
Alpine or Multi Pitch Climb
For alpine or a multi pitch climb, having an ATC with guide mode is ideal. You will need a device that has a guide mode for belaying a second. This is key to be able to safely secure yourself to an anchor point and belay from above. The double tube style on these devices accommodates rappelling and makes a more versatile device. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a great choice, as it is the same as the ATC XT with an added auto-blocking feature to bring followers up to a belay station.
When climbing with two ropes it is almost impossible to use an assisted braking belay device. Using the Edelrid Jul is the only solution to this problem. It is an assisted braking device that accommodates the double ropes. This is a great option for those rock climbing with half or twin ropes in the alpine that want the added protection of a braking device.
2. Versatility
The versatility of a device is important if you will be doing various types of rock climbing. If you want one device to rule them all, you will have to decide what is important to you. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a great example of an all-round performance belay device. It has an added texture for increased breaking friction, and auto-blocking loop for bringing up a follower and can accommodate double ropes for alpine climbing and rappelling.
While a GriGri, GriGri 2 or Mammut Smart might seem to be highly versatile, it is important to remember that these cannot accommodate two strands of rope. They are best kept to the gym or crag unless you are willing to pair them with other belay devices. The GriGri and more specifically the GriGri 2 can only accommodate certain diameters of rope as well which makes them less versatile than other devices.
3. Diameter
The rope's diameter in which a device can accommodate is an important variable when choosing the best belay device for you. Many belay devices have a small diameter range that aligns with their intended discipline of the sport. It’s true, you can run a smaller rope through a device with a wide diameter, but it isn’t necessarily the safest move. You want to make sure your rope matched the range on your device to belay safely.
The Petzl, Mammut, and Black Diamond products all accommodate between anywhere from 6.9mm up to 10.5mm ropes which is a fair range for most climbers.
4. Weight
The weight of a belay device is important to many climbers, especially those toting a heavy rack with lots of gear. This variable can be where rock climbers make a compromise and choose a lighter standard tube style belay device over an assisted braking device only for the weight.
5. Durability
All climbing belay devices endure rigorous testing before making it to the market. They are designed to maintain durability under the extreme stress of the sport. Some active assisted braking devices that have mechanized braking systems require a bit more caution and care to maintain durability. These are built tough, but since they have more pieces and components than a standard tubular ATC, they need to be taken care of more gently.
So, What is the Best Belay Device?
As mentioned, the best belay device depends on the type of climbing you'll be using it for, and finding the best one is essential to your climbing gear. You’ll need to know what you want to use the device for and have an idea of what is important to you. Of all the options, here are what we think are the best choices for a belay device on the market.
1. Black Diamond ATC-Guide
The Black Diamond ATC Guide is an upgrade from the Black Diamond ATC XP. It has added auto-blocking features that are perfect for multi-pitching and rappelling, but don’t get in the way. This is a versatile device that is loved by many. This device has gotten lighter over time making it even more desirable. There are multiple friction modes on the ATC-Guide that allows for optimal stopping power when rappelling or lowering. The guide mode is crucial in belaying up a second while attached to an anchor point. This device can accommodate a wide range of rope diameters between 7.7-11mm.
2. Petzl GriGri 2
The Petzl GriGri and Petzl GriGri 2 is an assisted braking belay device that uses a camming action to create friction. It is highly common at the gym due to its reliable safety features. Some gyms enact a mandatory GriGri regulation to ensure all climbers are belaying with similar technique and are backed up by their device. The cam-assisted function is extremely reliable when catching a fall or when taking in slack on a project. The safety features of the GriGri 2 have made it a contender for most popular device on the market.
This device features an anti panic handle that is required to control a descent. While the brake hand is still used in proper belay technique, the GriGri requires belayers to use their non-brake hand to engage a release handle in order to lower. This ensures that if anything happens to the belayer causing them to release their grip, the device’s camming action will engage, and catch a fall.
It is important to note your rope diameter when using a GriGri due to the mechanical camming action that requires you to run the rope between the device. The new versions of a GriGri can accommodate 8.5-11mm ropes safely, and anything outside this range may cause the anti panic handle to fail.
3. Mammut Smart 2
The Mammut belay device - previously Smart Alpine, now Smart 2.0 - is known to be an intuitive device. It was one of the early assisted belay devices that uses a passive mechanism. This means that there is no part of the device that will pinch the rope, but rather an action that occurs under force. This is a tubular style device that is designed with a braking action that will occur naturally, you don’t need to pull a lever or engage any feature to use the Smart 2.0. Launched in 2009, this is a “braking force support” device that is not self-locking but acts under a load. You can rig this device differently when belaying and rappelling, belaying from above, or for times when you need a bit less friction.
There is a reliable amount of hold power in this device when under a load. The new and upgraded Smart 2.0 has improved braking that will block the rope completely in case of a fall. There is a comfortable and intuitive rest for your fingers when feeding rope. This device can accommodate a single rope at a diameter of 8.7-10.5mm.
4. Petzl Reverso
The Petzle Reverso is a tubular style ATC device that accommodates two strands of rope and can be used in guide mode. It is a generally lightweight belay device that is perfect for the multipurpose and multidisciplinary climber. The Reverso is designed to be used rock climbing, mountaineering, multi-pitch climbing, or even at the gym. It has all the features you need to create rope friction, rappel, belay a second from above, while still being simple enough for the everyday beginner climber.
It’s ultralight minimalist design that is a great option for the versatile climber that doesn’t want to fumble around with multiple devices. Two ropes or one, the Petzl Reverso does the job. This device is compatible with single ropes 8.5-10.5mm, half ropes 7.1-9.2mm, and twin ropes 6.9-9.2mm.
5. Edelrid Mega Jul
The Edelrid Mega Jul is another passive assisted belay similar to the Mammut, but it can accommodate two strands of rope. This is really valuable for alpine climbers and mountaineers who are often relying on a double rope to rappel but want the added security of an assisted braking belay. Climbers of these disciplines have combined multiple belay devices to back themselves up and using the Edelrid Mega Jul takes that complex system out of the picture.
Using an active assisted braking device like a GriGri seems like the smartest way to ensure you protect yourself, but with the restrictive single rope structure, it isn’t always the most practical. Of course, proper belay technique combined with experience and focus can catch a climber fall, but backing yourself up with assisted braking belay devices is a smart choice. The Edelrid Mega Jul is a problem-solving belay device and may be an option for the belay devices that work best for alpine climbing and mountaineering. The option to have an assisted device that accommodates a double rope is key to avoiding dangerous outcomes.
The Mega Jul has a high braking performance that assists the belayer while lead belaying in case of a fall. It is a great belay device for multi pitch climbs and is packed with features that make bringing up a second and rappelling easy and intuitive. It is suitable for ropes 7.8-10.5mm in diameter.
Now, What Are The Best Devices For Each Climb?
A belay device should meet the basic functional requirements of the sport. Every belay device should allow the rope to run between the device and create some friction to pinch the rope. It should accommodate a range of rope diameters, attach safely to a harness, and allow a belayer to handle a rope without hassle.
Best Belay Device for Gym Climbing or Sport Climbing
Now, if you are looking for something specific for gym or sport climb styles, the best device for you will be simple. Choose between an assisted braking device like the GriGri or a tubular device like the Black Diamond ATC-XP. You’ll only be handling a single rope at a time even when lead climbing, so you can choose if you would like to back yourself up or rely on the friction of an ATC. The Mammut Smart is another great option for this type of climbing, but we have come to find the Petzl GriGri 2 to be the best device for sport and gym climbing.
Best Belay Device for a Versatile Climber
If you are a versatile climber who loves to take on multi pitch climbing, you’ll need a device that can accommodate two strands of rope. You can get away with a regular tubular device but having the auto-blocking features of a guide mode belay device is the best choice for this type of rock climbing. Any climber who is lead climbing a multi pitch climb will absolutely need a functional device that allows them to belay from above, where a follower won’t necessarily need this feature. It’s best to be prepared for any occasion, and the choice belay devices for multi pitch climbing are the Black Diamond ATC-Guide, and the Petzl Reverso.
Best Belay Device for Alpine Climbs
For those heading up high into the alpine on mountaineering efforts and alpine climbs, the best belay device will need to be light, reliable, and easy to use. The Mega Jul has changed the way alpine climbers are able to handle two ropes safely by offering a double rope assisted braking device. The Mega Jul is one of the tube style devices that has no anti panic handle to know how to use or worries about keeping a hand on the brake lever like a GriGri.
Overall Best Belay Devices
The overview of the best belay devices we covered are the best on the market and choosing one should be simple. Find out what your needs are and take a look at the best options out there. The biggest choice to make when choosing the best belay device is if you would like to use assisted braking devices or not. Some climbers see this as mandatory and some gyms will only allow members to use these devices. Others find it unnecessary and dislike the idea of adding a mechanism to their device.
After having a look at the belay devices listed here, you’ll be sure to find the right belay device for you. Choose one with safety, ability, and discipline in mind, and you will be happy to find a belay device that works for you.
